Tender has its roots in antique workwear and the machinery of the Great British Steam Age. Manufactured in small factories, ateliers, and homes around Britain. William Kroll the creative mind and founder of Tender likes to explore new approaches to traditional weaving, making, tanning, and dyeing. Perfection by imperfection is the result of the slow, hand–made and natural production methods.
The Baste Pocket Jacket is named after a tailor’s baste– the first rough fitting for a bespoke garment. To allow for maximum alterations for custom clothes, wide inlays are left on the panels at first, and these are folded in and loosely sewn with baste stitches, using a soft easily–broken thread called ‘baste’. After a fitting these inlays are cut away and the garment is eventually finished.
The Baste Pocket jacket is cut with long straight front panels, lined all the way down with cotton calico, which are then folded up to form a pocket, and back at the fronts to form a cutaway, like the basted front of a bespoke waistcoat.
Velvet is woven as a double face cloth: it comes through the loom with a flat plain weave on both sides, concealing a bed of perpendicular yarns joining the two faces. Before coming off the loom, however, the fabric is pulled across a razor–sharp splitting blade, which cuts the joining yarns half way between the faces, creating two pieces of fabric with a flat face on one side and a cut pile face on the other. After washing, pressing, and finishing, this becomes cut velvet. The fabric for these jackets is made up loomstate, before any of the finishing processes are carried out. The jackets are then washed or dyed, shrinking the fabric to size and giving them a particularly rich colour and texture as the garments form with the shrinking fabric and trap the dye into seams and folds in the cloth. The jackets are panel–lined with loomstate cotton calico, also woven in England.
Custom made stamped solid copper buttons / Copper riveted pocket corners / 100% cotton thread
Type 961 Indian Black Dye Loomstate Cotton Velvet Baste Pocket Jacket
Made In England