Tender has its roots in antique workwear and machinery, especially from the Great British Steam Age. An important face of Tender’s English–made clothing is the nurture which is put into the clothes: in their research, design, manufacture, and wear. Tender’s goal is for the owner to live with their clothes, wearing them hard, but respecting their provenance and the stories they have to tell.
The Baste Pocket Shirt is named after a tailor’s baste– the first rough fitting for a bespoke garment. To allow for maximum alterations for custom clothes, wide inlays are left on the panels at first, and these are folded in and loosely sewn with baste stitches, using a soft easily–broken thread called ‘baste’. After a fitting these inlays are cut away and the garment is eventually finished.
The shirt is cut with long straight front panels, which are folded up to form a pocket, and back at the fronts to form a cut–away, like the basted front of a bespoke waistcoat.
Newly developed Cotton Chain Cord is woven in England– the ecru cotton warp is pulled from the back of the cloth to the front, forming a series of twisting ridges which look like chain links, and form a vertical corded rib on the face of the fabric. The reverse side has corresponding dimples where the warp is pulled through, which can be seen on shirt pockets where the fabric is folded up at the hem. The indigo version of this fabric shows the construction particularly clearly, as the ecru warp is pulled up to form the chain cords, while the Japanese 25–dip rope–dyed indigo weft yarn sits behind, forming a deep blue base to the fabric, which will fade and soften beautifully with wear.
Type 461 Indian Black Dyed Cotton Chain Cord Baste Pocket Shirt
Rinsed to shrink / Solid copper buttons / Made in England